Installation Technique

800-924-5684

Preparation for Laying

The general principles and specific recommendations for sub-flooring and moisture barriers in the NOFMA 'Hardwood Flooring Installation Manual" shouldbe followed in-so-far as applicable to each particular installation(copy available on request).

Flooring must be brought to job site at least 48 hours before start of laving to allow for moisture equalization. For good atmospheric exposure, spread unopened bundles around in the room where flooring is to be installed.

In new construction, the house must be completely closed in. During the heating season, the heating system must be operated for at least two weeks before flooring is laid. In any house and with any hardwood flooring, the flooring installed on the first floor over a full basement (or basement and connected crawl space) is vulnerable tomoisture absorption through the sub-floor from the normal dampness of the basement (especially in new construction).In warm weather, it is MANDATORY that one or more DEHUMIDIFIER(S) be operated in the basement for several weeks prior to installing hardwood flooring and continuously operated after laying until the first heating season is underway. For long range protection from basement moisture, the dehumidifier should be PERMANENTLY INSTALLED over a suitable drain so that it will control basement moisture year after year during humid weather. Over isolated crawl space, moisture barrier and ventilation are essential (ask for details).

To install over a concrete slab, special preparations are necessary. (See NOFMA Hardwood Flooring Installation Manual.)

Installation

Layout - Run flooring parallel to the long dimension of the room if possible, but in any case flooring must be perpendicular to floor joists or screeds.(Exception -- if installed over old wood flooring, the new floor must be laid perpendicular to old flooring.)

Cover subfloor with red resin construction paper or 15 lb. asphalt felt.

Frame around major obstructions such as hearth or tiled inset areas using the narrowest width boards and with mitered comers.

Begin installation along one wall. Expansion space of approximately 3/4" must be provided between wall and starting planks and between opposite wall and final planks. End clearance of approximately 1/2" must be left between wall and plank ends at both ends of the room. These clearances will be covered by baseboard and shoe molding.If sheet rock is installed I" above the subfloor, the resulting reduced gap from flooring to framing will make it possible to omit the shoe molding.

Fastening

The first plank is laid with groove side to wall and is nailed with finishing.- nails near grooved edge. Pre-drilled holes will prevent splitting (these nails will be covered by shoe molding). All subsequent planks are blind nailed through the tongue using 2" nails, and counterset. A power nailer (manual or pneumatic) will be helpful in driving and setting nails at proper location and angle. A nail will be driven through subfloor into each joist plus at least two nails into subfloor between joists.

Screw and Plug - Screw fastening may be used if the plug appearance is desired in the finished floor. If the floor is predominantly boards of 5" face measure or wider, screw fastening and/or adhesive fastening is required.

Adhesive - Adhesive fastening may be utilized if desired (in addition to blind nailing) to ensure a squeak-proof floor or in place of (or in addition to screw and plug fastening) of wider board floors. A flexible adhesive (such as PL400 construction adhesive) is applied to the back of each board in a zigzag pattern just before the board is nailed in place. A mastic type wood flooring adhesive (spread with a trowel) may also be used. Mastic will provide some moisture barrier protection. With adhesive installation, paper must be omitted.

Sanding

Square edge flooring must be leveled by drum sanding (usually by a professional floor finisher).

Bevel edge flooring can be more readily sanded by a "do-it-yourself' craftsman. The butt-end joints in the floor may need leveling using a belt sander and 80 grit garnet sandpaper. The floor will then be given an overall sanding to smooth and remove any milling glaze using an orbital sander and 80 grit garnet sandpaper.

Sanding

Stain - If desired, stain flooring to a selected shade using a flooring stain compatible with the polyurethane to be used for finishing.

Finishing - With oil based polyurethane wood flooring finish, apply sealer coat plus two finish coats of polyurethane.
With water-based (latex) polyurethane wood flooring finish, apply sealer coat plus three finish coats of polyurethane.

Follow manufacturers recommendations carefully.
a)After sealer coat, sand entire floor with orbital sanderto remove raised grain.
b)Apply final coats of polyurethane finish.

Most polyurethane wood finishes do not require any waxing or other arduous maintenance treatment.

Housatonic Hardwoods Inc.

Showroom Address

P.O. Box 650,    31 South Main Street (Rt. 7)
Kent, CT 06757

800-924-5684    860-927-3551    Fax- 860-927-3911
hhardwoods@gmail.com

Warehouse/Distribution Address

22 Rimmondale Street Rear
Seymour, CT 06483